Reference my earlier posts on Wild Grape Vine & Pollinators and Grape Vines as a Source of Water. Because of these posts, a reader wrote to ask how to eradicate wild grape vine; she preferred not to use herbicide.
Because the transition area between my prairie and my woodland has become a bit overrun with wild grape vine (Vitis spp) and Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), I thought this was a really excellent topic for me to research.
Non-Herbicide Method
If you are averse to using herbicide, you can smother the stem end after cutting it from the rest of the vine. Wild grape vine must have sunshine to grow.
Or, you can dig the root out of the ground after having cut the stem at the end. Be prepared, however, because this plant has a large root system.
Herbicide Method
The surest way to eradicate wild grape vine, or for that matter, any unwanted vine, is during the autumn, when they are pulling nutrients back into their roots for their winter nap. Cut the vine at the beginning of the stem and carefully and safely paint just the cut end of the remaining stump with herbicide.
The Cooperative Extension says “to cut them down at the base and IMMEDIATELY treat the freshly cut stump with an herbicide with glyphosate or triclopyr. Do not let the herbicide get on the trunks of your trees (or anything but the vine).” (Cooperative Extension)
A Caution
Any of these control methods will work for vines growing up into trees and shrubs. There is no need to remove the vine from the trees and shrubs, since it should decay and fall away on its own. However, if the vines have grown extensively overtaking the tree, you might try to remove vine stems from as far up as you can reach to reduce the weight on the tree. Do not pull the vines down since that will damage the branches of the tree.
Also, bear in mind none of these methods will kill any of the rest of the vine that is running/growing along the ground. These runners will either have to be pulled up or smothered, or cut where the roots have anchored themselves into the ground and the cut end safely and carefully painted with herbicide. This is the situation I in which I find myself in my transition area, and I think I should tackle this task soon.
You should discuss smothering more. I have used newspaper, cardboard and materials where water cannot get through,like car floor mats. I used roofing material, under mulch, which disintegrated too fast. I neglected my garden for over a year and various vines went crazy. I used a tabletop over a difficult area. I removed it a year later. It has three snakes under it; one with a big head. That disturbed me the most. I live in an urban area. The snakes crawled there apparently during the time I did nothing.
Good point, Cindy. Smothering can be accomplished with almost any material which is dense enough to keep the sunlight from getting through. A dark colored material will hasten the process because it absorbs more heat. The material needs, however, to not be made of a material which will contaminate the soil and/or groundwater.
This post is taken from the Wild Ones Native Plants Group and is a link to Indigenous Landscapes:
Please consider this: Not all Vines are Bad!
Read the photo captions as we differentiate between the niche dominating, exclusive growth of invasive vines versus the co-existing nature of native vines. We’ll also include recommended control methods for different invasive vines and add ecological tidbits on the native vine photo captions.
Invasive vines in their mature form will cover entire trees, and/or entire thickets, and/or entire ground layers. Where as native vines, in their mature form, will only occupy a section within a particular niche, usually co-existing with its host plant. We’ll demonstrate this difference through the photos and their captions.
Invasive Plant Photos: (8) shared between oriental bittersweet, kudzu (in Ohio), Porcelain Berry, Asiatic Wisteria, Japanese Honeysuckle, English Ivy (Treat the same way as Winter Creeper Eunymous), and Japanese Hops (Humulus japonicus).
Native Vine Photos: (13) shared between American Bittersweet, Grape vine species: Frost Grape (Vitis vulpina) and Riverbank Grape (Vitis riparia), Virginia Creeper, Poison Ivy, Trumpet Creeper, Wild Potato Vine (Ipomea pandurata), and the native Hops (Humulus lupulus).
Please consider sharing for #NativePlantEducation
*As a For-Purpose business over 70% of the profit from our work goes towards funding our Native Plant Agricultural Farm Project, Public Education, and Volunteer Conservation Projects. For more info on our Native Plant Ag-Project, follow this link: http://www.pioneersprouts.com/
Hi! Kathy — yes, I agree. Not all native vines are as aggressive or as dominating as wild grape vines. Thanks for sharing.
Sadly, I found this article as I prepare to eliminate my corner of wild grape. The Spotted Lanternfly has moved in, and the vines have to go. Do you have any current information on this situation?
Thank you,
Lori Jo
NJ
Lori Jo — That’s what I know. I would kill off the main stem in the summer, and follow it with a new dose of herbicide in the fall — Donna
I am in the process of eradicating my grapevine as well and I’ve noticed that the spider and lantern flies are congregating on just the grapevines, i’m thinking probably because they are wetter than most trees they have a lot of sap or whatever is in them. When I saw the big base off my saw blade is really wet. I have been spraying the lantern flies with believe it or not zodiac flea spray! That stuff kills everything and I mean everything! I kill stink bugs visit ants spiders bees this stuff kills everything ! But unfortunately sometimes they are too high up and I can’t reach them
That’s good to know, Sarah — Donna
Please focus your eradication to the lanternflies. Bees are necessary for our food crops, ants and spiders all play a part. Do some google searches on your flea spray…you may be doing way more harm than good.
Sarah — I do not recommend spraying. I recommend “cutting the vine at the beginning of the stem and carefully and safely paint just the cut end of the remaining stump with herbicide.” When I have researched it, I will do a post of lanternflies — Donna
Sarah — one of my readers reminded me that you said “this stuff kills everything.” “Bees are necessary for our food crops, ants and spiders all play a part.” Lanternflies are invasiveness. Another one of the my reader has used organic pyrethrin since it doesn’t persist in the environment. Watch you YouTube channel How To Remove Spotted Lanternfly Eggs. There is not much you can do to defeat these invasive planthopper. What do you live?