In response to my earlier post on Wild Parsnip, Wild Parsnip – Another Non-Native Look-Alike, I got an e-mail from Wild Ones friend Tim Lewis who reminded me about the Parsnip Predator. Tim wrote, “I have this tool and I use it to sever the roots of small trees, dig up some sturdy plants and to dig holes to put my nursery plants in the ground. A very useful tool!” Sounds like a good tool to have for use around the landscape.
Parsnip Predator
The Parsnip Predator is a tool sponsored by the Prairie Enthusiasts. It was developed and constructed by the Prairie Enthusiasts Prairie Bluff chapter of Southern Wisconsin. This hand-adapted, specialized tool makes the removal of WildParsnip not only easy, but permanent.
To eradicate Wild Parsnip, the goal is to slice the taproot to sever the crown buds and then to remove the top portion with a gloved hand. Remember! Wild Parsnip sap is toxic and can cause phytophotodermatitis. This will kill the root, but not disturb the soil. It also limits potential damage to the surrounding prairie plants.
You could use a garden shovel to do the same thing, of course. But because there is typically never just one non-native plant to be eradicated, members of the Prairie Bluff chapter wanted less cutting resistance than is offered by the typical garden shovel. They also wanted a tool that was light-weight and ergonomic.
The Parsnip Predator makes the removal of any undesirable tap-rooted plant just as easy. For example, Queen Ann’s Lace, burdock, and a variety of thistles will just need a “slice” to be removed.
These invasive plant species can be removed in this way at any time, but be certain to remove them before they go to seed. In the case of Wild Parsnip, make certain you remove them before mid-July so the seeds do not drop. Also make certain you dispose of the severed Wild Parsnip plant into the landfill. DO NOT COMPOST WILD PARSNIP!
How to Buy?
Prairie Enthusiasts is a land trust that educates about, protects and restores prairies and savannas of the upper Midwest. They are headquartered in Viroqua, Wisconsin and have protected over 35 sites totaling over 2,273 acres in Wisconsin and northwest Illinois. You can order the Parsnip Predator from them.
The Parsnip Predator is also available through Prairie Moon Nursery. Prairie Moon Nursery, located in Winona, Minnesota provides native plants for gardening and restoration.
Thanks, Tim Lewis, for reminding me of this useful tool. Tim is Past President of national Wild Ones.
Love this tool!!
Hi! Quita — Love to hear it!
Bought 4 of these last year for use in a community parsnip effort. I can no longer find this tool on the Prairie Enthusiast web site.
Thanks, John, for writing. I have updated my post with new links taking you right to the parsnip predator. You can also order one through Prairie Moon Nursery. Good luck! See Parsnip Predator.
If the taproot is “sliced” and not fully removed, won’t the plant grow back? I’m primarily concerned with burdock, which you mentioned, as our new property has a large patch of this.
I have reviewed. in the past four days, the Internet for manual control of burdock, Wendy. I came across this entry Green Machine Fame — DIY Parnsip Predator. It seems to say that the taproot is sliced. According to the Campbell County, Wyoming the manual way is to control by hand pulling, chopping, or hoeing as long as the growth point, which is right at the ground level is removed. Mowing can be effective if repeated multiple times. (Invasive Species Fact Sheet – Common Burdock repaired by Aaron Ide)
I found an interesting annotate at How to Control Burdock Weed: “Once the plant is pulled up dig around the root with a spade. Dig widely and deeply enough to expose the entire root. Remember these plants develop large taproots, so you may need to do a lot of digging.
Once the root is exposed pour undiluted, distilled white vinegar on the base. Carefully pour the vinegar between the leaves of the plant. Aim to cover as much of the foliage and root system as possible. White vinegar is also useful for controlling ant infestations.
Allow the dying plant to sit in place for 2 days. During this period the leaves will soften and begin to turn brown. As the foliage changes color and dies, pull the leaves and any connected burdock roots.”